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Sunday, March 29th, 2009 | Author: admin

It’s summer and it seems like fleas are everywhere. Luckily, today’s pet owner has an arsenal of flea treatments at their disposal. Pyrethrin is a safe and widely used insecticide. Methoprene and Fenoxycarb are insect growth regulators (IGR) which prevent eggs and larvae from developing into pupae. Always treat bird dogs and their environment at the same time.

A flea’s life span can range from 2 weeks to 8 months. Because the pupa is wrapped within the protection of a cocoon, insecticides will not affect them one bit. This is why they are extremely difficult to kill, and also the reason why pet owners experience another flea outbreak just 2 weeks for the first treattment. As the pupa stage ends and the adult flea develops, you are left in the same position you began.

Flea Baths
Using a regular flea prevention shampoo can help with flea control. One thing to be careful about though is flea dips – especially if you have children in the house. Flea dips are very harsh and most leave a residue on your dog – they’re only recommended in cases of very extreme infestation and should be discussed with your veterinarian before use.

Spot On Medications
This type of flea treatment is administered between the shoulder blades of the pet. It’s a monthly treatment that will kill adult fleas for sure, and some brands will even prevent larvae and egg growth. These medications can only be used on dogs older than eight weeks. Water activities, like swimming or baths can make spot on medications less effective.

Pill Flea Treatment
Known for its effect as a “flea birth control”, this is also a monthly treatment. When the flea bites your dog, they become sterile and die without every laying eggs. When this happens, the fleas will die out completely, leaving you flea-free. Since this type of treatment can’t be washed off in water, it is great for pets that live indoors.

Natural Methods
Not everyone likes to use chemicals for flea control purposes. If this is the case, you should vacuum thoroughly as often as possible. In addition to carpets, vacuum furniture, pillows, and bedding. Properly discard the bag, or burn it, right away. Secondly, you should wash everything in the hot water cycle. Lastly, use dried pennyroyal, diactomaceous earth, or pyretthrum powder. Apply it on pet bedding and underneath cushions and mattresses. However, don’t use pennyroyal if your dog is pregnant. Repeat this process every few days.

Clean from inside out
Pet bedding, furniture, cushions, and thick carpets are fleas’ havens. Before treatment, always vacuum everything and everywhere in your home. Then, burn or properly discard vacuum bags immediately. Fleas love dust and hair, so this is important. It’s also important to wash all pet clothing and bedding in hot water. Insecticides are most effective on young, immature fleas.

Outside, fleas love wet, shady areas like dog houses, flower beds, and under decks or porches. Treat any location where your pet spends a lot of time. Fully mow and rake your yard. Get rid of leaves in flower beds and under bushes to increase the areas exposed to insecticides. The garage, basement and other places with non-carpeted floors should be thoroughly mopped to get rid of flea larvae hiding in crevices. Wash pet carriers and vacuum the car!

You can also choose a fogger or spray for your home, yard, and other areas, as they are very effective. You may need to repeat treatment in areas of severe infestation, usually every 2 or 3 weeks.

Flea bites cause all kinds of problems for pets and people. Intense itching can lead to skin problems, hair loss and infections. A bad infestation can lead to anemia and tapeworms. Allergies to flea saliva can cause flea dermatitis. Getting rid of a flea infestation is imperative for the health of your pet. Following these steps will help your pet and your home stay flea free.

There are lots of hunting dog supplies out there on the market, they range from dog crates, to dog collars, to electronic hearing protection. Make sure you do your research before you buy something to make sure it offers exactly what you want.

Thursday, March 26th, 2009 | Author: admin

If you are one of the many allergy sufferers you know who miserable it can make you.

Now imagine your dog suffering from allergies and how miserable she must be. She cannot complain and she cannot ask for help. So as responsible dog owners it is up to us to figure out when she is having an allergy outbreak and to provide her with medicine as soon as possible.

Similar to humans, dog allergies are usually passed through genetics from parents to puppies.

There are various things that can cause a dog to have an allergic reaction. The more common dog allergies include dog food allergies, protein allergies, allergies to pollen, and dog skin allergies. Thankfully they are all treatable with proper treatment and monitoring. Change her dog food until you find one that does not trigger a dog food allergy. You should be able to find other treatments for other types of allergies.

If you believe your dog has allergies then schedule a vet appointment. You vet can examine her and then recommend the best course of treatment.

The easiest way to identify dog allergies is to know your dog. Know what “normal” looks like for her. So, when you see something that seems to be out of the ordinary you can take a closer look. This can be helpful not only in identifying potential allergies, but it can help to identify the start of other illnesses as well.

Several symptoms can indicate that your dog may be allergic to something. You may notice that she is always scratching, or she may be gnawing at her skin. There is no sure set of symptoms that you can use to identify your dog’s allergies since there is no telling how a dog will exactly react to something.

So any changes in behavior that you see is grounds for further investigation. Try to find out what is causing the change in your dog’s behavior.

Dog allergies should be identified and treated as soon as you can. This can help you poor little dog to avoid additional pain and discomfort and bring her some relief to her allergy suffering.

If you got your dog from a breeder then it is quite likely that they can tell you if her parents had dog allergies too. That may make it a bit easier to pinpoint what she may be allergic to.

Read the rest of the articles in the dog allergy series.

Stop by our online pet store for all your dog supplies.

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Saturday, March 21st, 2009 | Author: admin

It’s not uncommon for bird dogs to get an ear infection in fact it’s a result of the size and depth of their ears. Because hunting dogs (gun dogs) spend so much time outdoors and have large, floppy ears, they are actually more prone to getting an ear infection. Infections in the ear are a result of yeast or bacteria which can grow in your dogs’ ear and eventually may wind up in the ear canal.

Symptoms of Otitis
Not only are ear infections painful, in extreme cases they may actually lead to your dog becoming deaf. There are some symptoms that you can be on the lookout for – some are basic behaviors of dogs that have ear infections while others are clinical symptoms. You should be aware if:

Your dog has any discharge from their ears which is heavily colored
Your dogs; ears begin to emit a strong, foul odor
Your dog begins to scratch his ears or shake his head excessively

These early signs can get worse and becoming a serious infection. Once the infection begins to creep deeper into your dog’s ear, it will get into the inner ear and begin affecting your dog’s ability to keep his balance and to hear:

Disorientation
Falling down or an awkward “drunken” gate
Loss of hearing
Unusual eye movements or “crazy eye”

As soon as you’ve noticed something wrong, take your dog to a veterinarian. The faster you treat the infection, the easier it will be to care for it and the less it will cost you in money and your dog in pain.

Your veterinarian can find the problem by utilizing a special scope to observe the infection, and sometimes, a cotton swab may be use to get a sample. Ear mites and other diseases can have the same symptoms of otitis, so they must be ruled out before treatment can begin.

Treating Ostitis
Usually the infection is treated with a medication. Sometimes it’s as simple as hydrogen peroxide poured into the ear regularly or it will involve a prescription medication for more serious infections. Sometimes antibiotics are also prescribed to lessen the other affects of the infection. A thorough ear cleaning will be done at the vet’s office and then your regular treatments with medication will be done at home.

The treatment for most ear infections will mean that you’ll have to place the medication in your dogs’ ear and that is most likely going to mean that you’re going to need a second set of hands. The dog isn’t going to be particularly happy with any treatment, but it’s critical that the treatment be completed per your veterinarians’ instructions. Don’t forget to talk soothingly to your dog during treatments, it will help him relax.

Watch your dog carefully. Even after the infection is “cured,” it can come back again and dogs never become immune to it. Remember: the earlier you catch it, the easier it will be to take care of it.

Keep in mind that not only is health issues important with your hunting dog, but the type of hunting dog supplies you get from your dogs are just as important. Make sure to do your research and take your time when you decide to purchase something such as a dog training collar.

Friday, March 20th, 2009 | Author: admin

We all understand the importance of carrying a first aid kit when we’re hunting to protect ourselves from possible injury. But, don’t overlook a first aid kit for your hunting dog while you’re preparing your own! It’s better to be prepared for a possible problem and be able to deal with a minor injury than wait until you get back home and discover you have a real problem.

Your dog is depending on you to care for him at home and out on the field. After all, this is your responsibility. In the event that your dog becomes hurt, will you be prepared to treat his wound with sanitary medical dressing? That’s the difference between being prepared and using an old shirt or rag, which can actually lead to deadly infections and make the injuries worse. It’s worth the couple extra dollars to have a first aid kit for dogs on hand.

Here is what to look for in a good bird dogs first aid kit:

A First Aid Guide
This guide should cover the basics of first aid for dogs. It should show how to bandage wounds, do mouth-to-snout resuscitation, and use the other items contained in the first aid kit to help your dog. This is for emergencies and doesn’t replace normal veterinary care, of course. Read the guide before you go out so you are familiar with the information in it and will either know it or be better able to find it quickly.

Don’t Forget The Tweezers
Small and often forgotten, these little pincers are a Godsend when you have slivers to remove. Just like in humans, a splinter that enters a dog’s foot pad or another part of the body can bury itself in the skin and work its way deeper, eventually becoming an abscess. This abscess will become infected and could spread its infection throughout the body.

Hydrogen Peroxide
Easy and cheap, this liquid is a must-have in any decent first pad kit. Because they are good for sterilizing, it’s a good idea to use them on your dog as a prep. It won’t cause any discomfort or pain. If it comes as liquid versus a sterile pad, make sure to use a sterile gauze pad to properly clean the affected area, before and after treatment.

Iodine
A small bottle of iodine is the next step up from peroxide and can be used to more thoroughly clean a wound or cut before bandaging. Even better is to use the peroxide and then the iodine on the wound before bandaging. Iodine can make a wound heal much faster.

Antibiotic Ointment
These are off-the-shelf ointments that can be used to help with bee or wasp stings, abrasions, or other small injuries.

Eyewash
Like their adult companions, dogs often get things in their eyes that no amount of trying will dislodge. You can find a simple saline solution that can be safely used to wash out your dogs’ eyes and in some cases, even prevent issues with their vision. Just spray some into the dogs’ eye and as a rule of thumb the rest will take care of itself.

Trauma Pad
A trauma pad is crucial if your dog is seriously injured; it will help minimize bleeding and help keep the wound bound as well as providing assistance in transporting your dog to emergency help. When shopping for a trauma pad watch out that the sizing is correct for your dogs needs.

Gauze, Tape, and Scissors
Simple, basic, and self-explanatory, these tools are indispensable for your dog’s injuries. It’s useful for cuts and scratches. To properly treat these minor injuries, bandage and gauze the area, then tape it to protect the area from further damage.

A dog first aid kit can really make your hunting trip a good time. Lack of one can make it traumatic. Be sure you have a good kit with lots of hunting dog supplies and that you carry it with you at all times while in the field. It’s not a bad idea to have it easily accessible at home too.

Sunday, January 25th, 2009 | Author: admin

Heartworm is a serious, often fatal disease and is one of the worst diseases your dog can face. Luckily, it’s easy to prevent heartworm and it takes nothing more than a pill, food additive, and preventive care. You can purchase a heartworm pill to give to your bird dogs as a “treat,” or get liquid or powder additives to put into your dog’s food regularly (weekly, monthly, etc. depending on the treatment).

Heartworm Facts
Heartworm can live in the dog’s body and work its way into all major organs and tissue, and finally the heart, which is what kills the animal. Heartworm is a parasite and mosquitoes are often to blame because they carry heartworm. However, your dog can also get heartworm from other animals like foxes and coyotes.

Preventing Heartworm
Preventing is the easiest way to “treat” heartworm. As said earlier, getting protection is as easy as giving him a pill, adding something to his food, and keeping his home (and him) clean. While it’s common to treat heartworm only in the warmer months, many people have found that doing it year-round is both easier and more effective. Veterinarians agree.

Symptoms of Heartworm
One of the first symptoms you may notice is weight loss, lack of energy, or excessive coughs. As the parasite attacks the dog’s lungs or respiratory system, the cough will become more severe. And as it reaches other areas of the body, symptoms will worsen. In the first few months, the heartworm infection usually goes unnoticed because parasites are too busy propagating and haven’t yet spread to show the symptoms in the dog.

Diagnosis
A veterinarian will be able to diagnose a dog with heartworm through observation and blood tests. Treatment options will be based on whether the infection is male or female since they must be treated according to infection type. A double test will be done not only to determine whether male or female, but also to determine worm count. This will also how far the infection has advanced.

Treating Heartworm
Once diagnosed, heartworm must be treated immediately before the dog succumbs to it or spread the disease to other dogs. The treatment will depend on the stage of the infestation. An unhealthy dog has little chance of living through treatment or an infestation, but a healthy one can. If the parasites have entered too many of the dog’s organs or have become too much for him to handle, it’s not likely that treatment will work. This is why catching it as early as possible is key.

If any other dogs are living with or around the infected dog, they should be tested immediately for heartworm as well. It spreads quickly from one dog to the next, so testing is important. People should be tested as well, as humans are also capable of getting heartworm.

While heartworm is a deadly parasite, it can be prevented or treated if it is done properly.

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Sunday, January 25th, 2009 | Author: admin

Most of us are aware that when our dog has pups they take care of most of the work all by themselves. For almost all bird dogs, having the pups and expelling the placenta is a natural process and when followed by sufficient rest your momma dog will be back on her feet and happy and healthy as she ever was. Most dogs that are healthy have absolutely no problems giving birth. There are some complications that as a responsible pet parent you should be aware of (especially if you are a breeder).

Once mom has successfully given birth it’s usually a good idea to take her to the vet just to verify that everything is fine. You should try to do this within a day of birthing and you might want to check with your vet to see if they think it’s a good idea to check out the puppies at the same time. For mom, you want to verify that she has no puppies remaining in her womb and that she has fully expelled the placenta. If mom isn’t checked out thoroughly and a baby or a part of the placenta is left in the womb mom could get a serious infection and if left unchecked she could become ill enough to succumb to infection. Often your vet will recommend a shot that will help make sure the uterus is clear and will also help mom let her milk down.

Carefully watch the bitch for several days after giving birth to make sure that there is no high fever, lack of appetite, or diarrhea, as these are signs of bacterial infection. Without antibiotics, she can die or develop serious problems. And since puppies should never be away from the mother dog, they should also have the benefit of vet care. The vet will check temperature and examine them to make sure that everything appears normal. If anything seems unusual, you should take her to the vet immediately, especially during the first week after whelping.

Watch mother carefully for the first few days to be sure nothing unusual is happening. If she is to get sick after whelping, it will be during the first week after the puppies have come.

There are some things you can do as a responsible pup parent to make sure that mom has everything she needs to make sure all stays well. First and foremost make sure that the area where mom and babies are resting is kept very clean – wash all bedding daily and clean up any messes you see immediately. Do not use any harsh cleaning products that can cause irritation to the eyes and noses if the newborn puppies.

Eclampsia is another problem to watch for in the new mother. This is often called “milk fever” and is a condition where her body does not produce enough calcium for lactation. This will occur three weeks or so after lactation begins and is a serious problem. If it is caught early, supplements can be added to her food to give her what she needs to make up for it. Symptoms will include stiffness, pain, and a fever with possible seizures. Take her to a vet as soon as you see any symptom.

Your dog may develop an infection of her mammary glands which can be common and you should be aware of. This is especially true as your mom pup nurses her babies and they start cutting teeth. Mastasis can also happen shortly after birth and is distinguished by purplish spots on the teats accompanied by a fever. This is relatively easy to treat with a topical cream.

Sometimes, agalactia can set in. This is a condition where the bitch can only produce little milk, or sometimes, not at all. The vet will be able to see if this is a problem during the first examination and take effective measures to treat the problems.

Although the conditions and problems above are serious, you’ll find that whelping is a very natural and healthy process, with little care required from you. Most dogs produce healthy puppies and will be fine after birth.

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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 | Author: admin

Just like any good parent, when your children go outside to play you want them to be as safe as possible. It is no different when you are a responsible pet owner of a puppy! You will definitely need to pick up some dog supplies for your new puppy.

There are many hidden dangers that you may or may not be aware of that could really hurt or even pose grave dangers for your pup! Your puppy has no sense of what safety is. However, you can do a few simple things to ensure that your puppy is safe when outside.

One of the first things to look out for is water areas. It is true that every dog can swim, but young pups need some training. There are cases every year of dogs that drown because they got into water that was too much for them. In one story, while on a hiking trek, a man and his new German Shepherd puppy along. When he approached a lake, the pup was so excited that he took off into the lake. The pup did not automatically swim, actually the puppy became overwhelmed by how large a body of water such as this lake.

The puppy would have drown had the man and his friend not gotten to the German Shepherd puppy in the nick of time! Again, all dogs can swim but puppies cannot swim well enough to take on such large bodies of water such as lakes, streams, rivers, etc. So make sure that your puppy stays on their leash when you are approaching water areas. It is always better safe than sorry! Another danger to your puppy can be insects!

Im talking about bugs! Fleas, ticks, mosquitoes and other common insects can be real trouble for puppies. These bloodsuckers can pose a real threat to your puppy because they carry disease not to mention can cause skin irritations and in some puppies, allergic reactions. So make sure just as with yourself and loved ones, that your puppy has more than ample protection against insects. Be sure that you take a quick look at dog dresses and dog shampoo.

There are many great products that give round the clock protection against fleas and ticks in addition to a variety of products that will ward off other bloodsucking pests! These medications may come in the form of a pill, spray, lotion or cream, and powders. There are also many holistic products that are all natural and do not contain chemical repellents that have had success when used correctly. A good rule of thumb is that you use these repellents during the early morning and at dusk because that is when mosquitoes are at their most prevailant.

You can also avoid marshy and heavily wooded areas as well that will reduce the chances of your pup being eaten alive by mosquitoes.

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Thursday, January 22nd, 2009 | Author: admin

Whelping is a term used to refer to the birth process of canines, when the female gun dog gives birth to a litter of puppies. Most female bird dogs (bitches) will go through this process naturally, with little help needed from you or a veterinarian. Occasionally, though, some help is needed and if you understand the process and what is expected at each stage of whelping, you’ll be prepared to give aid when it is needed.You may often hear people refer to the term whelping - simply put, this refers to the birthing process of a litter of bird dogs. This is a fairly natural process for dogs, but sometimes you may need to assist in the process or seek the help of a veterinarian. Understanding the whelping process is critical in order to provide help to a gun dog during the delivery process.

A bitch will be pregnant for about 58 to 68 days. Towards the end of this gestation period, at about the fifty-eighth day, you’ll want to start watching for signs of labor. Take the dog’s temperature regularly and watch for a sudden drop to about 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit as this is an indication that she will begin whelping within the next 24 hours. You can rent or buy a thermometer meant especially for this task from a veterinarian. Use a little lubricant, such as petroleum jelly, to help the process.Once the gestation period for your dog is beginning to near the end, around fifty-eight days, you should begin looking for signs that labor could be beginning. One of the major signs of labor beginning is that the dog’s temperature will drop to 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit; normal temperature for a dog is 101.3 degrees Fahrenheit. There are specific thermometers meant for this, and can usually be purchased from a vet’s office. Once the temperature has dropped you can usually expect the whelping process to begin within 24 hours or so.

Make available a whelping box (any box large enough for her to comfortably stretch in). It can be cardboard, plastic, or wooden. She will naturally begin nesting in that box shortly before the whelping process is to begin. Her instincts are telling her to prepare for the puppies.Now it’s important to designate a place where you female will have this litter of puppies. I prefer a whelping box made from wood – this will make cleanup much easier. As your dog’s temperature begins to fall you will want to introduce her to the whelping box. She will naturally begin nesting so make sure you line the bottom of the box with newspaper as she will shred paper in preparation for giving birth.

Don’t hold that 24-hour rule for temperature drop to whelping too fast, however. Often, this temperature drop happens only a few minutes or hours before the event. Nesting and temperature change together are sure indications no matter what, though. Be prepared anytime after her 58th day of pregnancy for her to go into labor at any time. When she does go into labor, she will begin contractions, which will be clearly visible as her muscles from shoulder to tail will contract and release rhythmically and she will likely lie down and find a comfortable place in her whelping box. She will whimper slightly and begin licking herself to prepare for birth.It is always to keep in mind though that when your dog’s temperature drops, it doesn’t necessarily mean that you have 24 hours until the puppies are born. It can often happen within only a few hours before labor begins. If your dog begins whelping, and her temperature drops, that is a sure sign that labor will begin very soon. Labor is very easy to spot, she will begin having contractions which will be easily spotted. The muscles from her shoulder to her tail will contract and release over and over again. At this time she will most likely be very restless and try to find a comfortable position.

It’s likely that from here on in, you will only be an observer, watching as the pups emerge one after another. It can take several minutes or even hours. A bitch that has not had puppies before will likely take longer than one who hasn’t, but there is no hard-and-fast rule. If the process takes more than two or three hours, call a veterinarian for advice.Puppies should begin coming out one right after another. This can happen very quickly, or sometimes in a first time mother can take a few hours. If your dog has been in labor for more that two to three hours, you should consider calling your vet, so you know what to look for in case of an emergency.

If more than an hour goes by with her in labor but producing no puppies, help her up and take her for a brief walk around the area or (if the weather is good) in the yard. Do not go further than you can carry her, however, so that if she collapses into birth, you can quickly take her back to her whelping box. Feathering is another technique that can help stimulate birth. Put on a latex glove and lubricate with KY jelly or another non-toxic lubricant and gently insert your finger into her vulva up to the top of her vagina.To speed the process up or if you find that a considerable amount of time has gone by between delivery of puppies you can take her for a quick walk. Keep a close eye on your female this short walk may create an unexpected birth outside of the whelping box. Another way to stimulate birth is to use a technique called feathering. With a latex glove and some KY jelly, gently insert a single finger into your female’s vulva lightly lifting it to the edge of her vagina, in an up and out motion.

When the puppies finally do come, they will be preceded by a gush of fluid as her water breaks. After her water has broken, expect a puppy within twenty minutes and more to follow shortly after, one after another. They are usually born head first and the mother will naturally know when to stop. You can “feel” her gut by gently pressing with your fingers to see if more puppies are due to arrive.Like humans, the birth of a puppy often begins with the female’s water breaking. You can expect puppies within 15 to 20 minutes of the time her water is broken. Most puppies are born head first but don’t be alarmed if they are born breach (feet first).

Once they are born, the mother will likely do all the work caring for the puppies. Make sure that warm, damp rags are ready for wiping down the pups and for gently massaging them to stimulate breathing. Most likely, mother will do this with her tongue as the pups are born, so again, you will likely just watch. Do not pick up or handle the puppies any more than medically necessary during the first few hours so that they can have mom’s full attention. Gentle, shortly-timed handling for the first week or so is recommended while the puppies acclimate and grow.Most of your puppies will be delivered with a placenta and in an amniotic birthing sack. Care should be taken not to make sure the puppy is removed from the sack, cleaned and dried as quickly as possible. The mother should naturally do most of this for you, however, there will be times when you need to step in and help. During the first few hours after birth you should try to keep your handling of the puppies to a minimum and let the mother naturally accept and begin caring for these puppies on her own.

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Monday, January 19th, 2009 | Author: admin

Dogs age at approximately 7x the rate humans do. So it’s not surprising that your dog should have a physical examination at least every seven “dog years”–that’s every year in human terms. And as your pet becomes middle-aged–that’s over 40 in people years or over 6 in dog years–physicals are recommended twice a year.

“Not only do dogs get older faster than people do, but their diseases progress more quickly, too,” according to veterinary doctors.

A once-a-year physical gives your dog doctor a chance to sit down and chat with your pet about what’s changing in his/her life. More importantly, yearly physicals let your pet’s doctor establish what is normal in your dog, so he or she will know when something is abnormal.

A yearly physical is good preventive medicine. According to the veterinaians, “Finding and treating diseases in the early stages gives your pet a much better prognosis than discovering a disease already in full swing,”. Your veterinarian may identify changes in your pet that you haven’t noticed.

During the physical examination, your veterinarian will look for systemic abnormalities. During physicals the veterinarian will move from the front to the back of your dog observing any abnormalities, starting with the eyes, ears, nose, and throat and moving to the lungs, heart, and gastrointestinal tract. Always checking for new lumps or bumps as he/she moves along.”

Heartworm tests should also be done at the time of the annual physical. Heartworm is a serious disease, common everywhere mosquitoes live. The physical exam is a good time to keep up to date on vaccines. Our veterinarian also suggests checking whether your pet has worms or other parasites once a year. A simple fecal test can determine whether your de-worming protocol is working.

Between annual examinations, be on the lookout for signs that your pet is having trouble: not eating, changes in weight, vomiting, coughing, sneezing, elimination problems, or other changes in patterns. Any of these may indicate the need for an extra visit to your veterinarian.

If your dog is healthy, you will find that he/she becomes more active.Engaging your healthy dog in activities is a sure way to keep him happy and healthy. The Dog toys you have packed away will once again become useful, once your dog feel better.

It is very vital to take care of your Dog health in order to keep your dog healthier and happier.

A yearly physical is good preventive medicine. According to the veterinaians, “Finding and treating diseases in the early stages gives your pet a much better prognosis than discovering a disease already in full swing,”. Your veterinarian may identify changes in your pet that you haven’t noticed.

Also learn how to house train dog.

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Sunday, January 18th, 2009 | Author: admin

Parasites – The blight of ticks

Ticks can be considered by many as the worst external parasite which can be found on your dog. These bloodsucking parasites bury their head under the dog’s skin and lives from his blood while in return exposes your pet to dangerous diseases and viruses. These ticks can carry diseases like Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever as well as Ehrlichiosis.

A tick’s life

In general, the average tick which makes its way to your dog falls under a 3-host category. In basic form, this means that the larvae, the nymphs as well as the full grown adults live their life attached to your dog; all the while they feed from your dog’s blood. Once bitten, the tick causes the dog’s skin to become irritated and while this occurs with just a single tick, imagine an entire family calling your pet their new home.

Throughout their life, the tick starts off as a larvae and has six legs. As a larvae, the tick will feed from the dog’s blood for about 3 days before letting go of the dog. Once it lets go, the tick turns into a nymph and has eight legs. As a nymph, it can now lay eggs and will feed for another 7 to 10days before molting into a full-grown adult tick.

With eggs attached, if the tick turns into a female, it will then fertilize the eggs while at the same time consume vast amounts of your dog’s blood which allows it to grow in size rather quickly. These female ticks are usually easy to spot at this stage but hopefully you have spotted them and removed them long before they reach the adult stage. You will probably want to pick up a double dog feeder or a double dog diner to keep your dogs food off the nasty floor.

Tick Removal

It is important that you remove the tick as soon as possible because they will burrow themselves in deeper under the skin. The deeper they burrow themselves the harder t will be to remove them. When it comes to removing the tick though, do not try pulling it off or scraping it off with your finger because their head is burrowed under your dog’s skin. Using a pair of fine tweezers, grab a hold of the base of the tick’s head to remove them. Sometimes this is not easy depending on how deeply the tick has burrowed under the skin. Their are many different dog supplies that can help with your dog parasite problems.

It is important to make sure that all of the tick’s head is removed because any part that is left will also leave the dog’s skin irritated. Just remember that the sooner the better when it comes to the removal of ticks. Do not try to burn them off because you may catch your pet’s fur on fire and do not use alcohol, just use a simple pair of fine tweezers.

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